Types of Diamond Cuts - How to Choose The Right Shape

A diamond's cut is a key consideration when selecting a diamond. While clarity, color, and carat are also important, cut quality gives a diamond life. It determines how well light is captured and reflected to create the brilliance and fire that make these gemstones captivating. It also has the greatest impact on a diamond's value.

It's helpful to understand the different types of cuts if you're purchasing a diamond or a piece of jewelry with a diamond in it. While choosing one that complements your personal style is important, knowing how to spot a good cut can help you get the most out of your investment.

The Difference Between Cuts and Shapes

A diamond's cut and shape are two different things. The cut refers to the arrangement of facets on the diamond's surface. Think of a facet as a tiny, angled mirror that reflects light. When a diamond is cut well, its facets are positioned to balance light and dark areas, creating a symmetrical pattern of reflections and resulting in a sparkle that catches the eye when the light hits it.

Shapes refer to a diamond's silhouette when viewed from above. Shape names are self-explanatory: square and rectangular cuts have four corners, while round and oval cuts have circular silhouettes. The cutter chooses the diamond's shape based on the rough stone's original shape. A cutter's goal is to preserve as much of the diamond as possible while creating a visually appealing shape and a cut that maximizes its reflective qualities.

The Types of Diamond Cuts

We describe the primary diamond-cutting styles below.

Brilliant Cut

This diamond cut features kite-shaped and triangular facets spreading out from the center of the stone; they're arranged in a symmetrical pattern to maximize brilliance. It effectively hides inclusions (internal flaws occurring during the diamond`s formation) that can reduce its value. The most popular shape used with this cutting style is the round brilliant. When other shapes feature similar facets, they're called modified brilliant instead of brilliant cuts.

Step Cut

A step cut diamond features square or rectangular facets arranged parallel to the girdle, the widest part of the stone. The facets are typically larger than those on a brilliant cut, resulting in a “hall of mirrors” effect. Instead of maximizing brilliance, this cutting style emphasizes a diamond's color and clarity. While a step cut produces less fire and brilliance, it's an effective way to showcase a high-quality stone.

Mixed or Hybrid Cut

This combines the brilliant and step cut styles, resulting in a “crushed ice” effect that gives a diamond a shimmering appearance. The way a mixed cut diamond reflects light differs from that of a brilliant cut because it creates a softer, more dispersed sparkle instead of sharp flashes. Many mixed cut diamonds feature a brilliant cut crown (the top part of the stone) and a step cut pavilion (the part below the girdle). They're ideal if you want a unique and modern-looking piece.

Guide to Popular Diamond Shapes

Diamond shapes, in general, can be round, oval, square, or rectangular. However, there are also irregularly shaped diamonds that don't fall into any of these categories. Here's a quick look at popular diamond cut shapes:

• Round Brilliant Cut: This traditional style is widely regarded as the best diamond shape for engagement ring pieces. It displays high levels of brilliance.
• Princess Cut: Typically a mixed cut diamond, the princess cut is a relatively recent style with a square shape and a brilliant cut crown.
• Emerald Cut: This is an elegant step cut with long, thin facets. It was popularized in Art Deco pieces but is also used for modern-day rings.
• Asscher Cut: A step cut like the emerald cut, this style features a square shape and X-shaped facets. It was created in 1902 but became popular in the 1920s when the Art Deco style became a major trend.
• Cushion Cut: This square-shaped mixed cut diamond with soft, rounded edges is popular because it shines vividly and projects a romantic vibe, which is ideal for an engagement ring.
• Marquise Cut: A brilliant cut diamond with an elongated shape and pointed tips, the marquise cut is visually stunning because of its unique look and perceived larger size. Its storied history as a commissioned piece for King Louis XIV's mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour, makes it intriguing.
• Heart Cut: This modified brilliant cut features a heart-shaped face, making it ideal for engagement rings and other jewelry pieces.

The Role of Quality in Diamond Selection

When evaluating diamond quality, the certification system created by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), set the industry standard. GIA grades diamond cuts as excellent, very good, good, fair, and poor based on seven key factors: brightness, fire, scintillation, weight ratio, durability, polish, and symmetry. We recommend focusing on diamonds with excellent or very good cut grades for optimal value. These well-proportioned stones exhibit excellent craftsmanship that translates to greater durability and sparkle.

FAQ for Diamond Buyers

Here are answers to three common questions about buying diamonds.

Can Diamond Shapes Be Modified After Purchase?

While minor adjustments are possible, changing a diamond's shape isn't recommended because it could compromise its integrity.

What Is the Bowtie Effect?

Some elongated cuts, such as pear and marquise, may display a dark pattern resembling a bowtie in their center. This is often caused by improper cutting and may affect the diamond's brilliance.

Which Cuts Offer the Best Value?

Fancy cut diamonds may offer the best value. Compared to round brilliant cuts, they're not as in demand, which translates to lower prices for similarly sized stones. Many fancy cuts also give the illusion of a larger size, which means you can get a bigger-looking stone at a friendlier price.

Find the Perfect Piece at Shapiro Diamonds

Knowing the different diamond cuts and shapes can help you find the right stone for your budget and style. If you're in Dallas, Texas, or nearby areas, contact us at Shapiro Diamonds today and schedule a private consultation. We're trusted jewelers with over 25 years of experience, and we'd love to help you find the perfect stone. We also offer wholesale diamonds, bespoke service for custom-made jewelry, and other jewelry services.